After 20+ years in the fashion industry I felt it my duty (oh, how noble of me) to take my knowledge and experience and pass it on to the crowd of makers, crafters, designers, and all round creatives who themselves had a vision of creating.

All too often I have seen companies who do not appreciate the complexity of a development process, the concept of planning, the need to identify a market, and most importantly, the need to treat their suppliers with common curtesy (being polite, gets you places, being a bitch doesn’t): things I believe are essential to the longevity of a collection and of a brand.

So I’ve made it my mission to educate and preach these aspects to anyone who is interested in listening.  To pass on these nuggets that will fundamentally change your business and make a random selection of products into a cohesive line.

My goal is simple: I want people’s businesses to succeed. I want to enable a beautiful product to be made and appreciated. Whether it’s for a huge international brand, or a maker with a spare room and a vision. I want to be part of it.

So join me on the 12th and 13th May in person in San Francisco, or on the live stream at:

https://www.creativelive.com/courses/diversifying-your-product-line-susie-breuer

My consultancy is co-lab54.com

I’m based in San Francisco

Here’s why:

I recently worked with an accessory company who had grown quickly and organically over the past 2 years to a stage where they successfully managed an online, and retail business. Their product was very strong, and they had a polished leathery future ahead of them, but as they’d grown they’d failed to document their timelines and processes resulting in a vulnerable position without an internally shared knowledge base and virtually no formal planning. The knowledge was in the heads of the management with no consistent planning tool in place for the team below them to follow and implement. What this meant was that the leadership team, instead of the team of assistants, were driving the day-to-day workings instead of being the face of the growing business and tending to the business development side. They were creating the bottleneck for their own company.

This is not a unique position. It happens a lot with companies as they grow from one person into a team, heck, I’ve done it myself, often finding it easier to manage the process myself instead of delegating it down to my team. But believe me, it is a false economy and it will come back to bite you. There are, of course, simple processes that you can implement which can alleviate this problem. I’m sharing some below:

Assumptions:

Make a list of assumptions for each departmental process which can be shared as the companies grows. These assumptions should include timelines for trim, fabric, washing, manufacture and shipping by location. It should also list the timelines relating to company process: proto reviews, concept building, range plan creation etc.  With this list anyone can make a simple plan to determine a time and action. Without it and no one know how long each process could or should take. These assumptions will be used in the next point:

Matrix/Linelist:

This matrix/linelist is a document that should contain all the styles you are developing, (by style name, fabric, colour, factory and by product group). At the beginning of each season, build the clear and simple document that lists the details of your whole collection and treat it as a one stop shop for all collection information. Add in the financials (cost price, retail price and margin), the delivery drops planned, and also the production planning with milestone dates for fabric and trim buying and you have a complete and very detailed document.

By adding in the product planning section and the delivery drops, and by using the assumption sheet in point 1, you can build out a data driven set of reminders and milestones to enable more strategic bulk raw material procurement and seamless manufacturing order placement (with buffer time included). The pain of spending 2 hours of data entry can save you days of confusion, late deliveries and cancelled orders. Yes, it is time-consuming to build this out half way through a season, but so is having to find a second source for trims or materials when you have missed a deadline to order and your production is jeopardized.

Shared ownership:

Ever heard of the phrase, “A problem shared is a problem halved”? Have at least 2 people in the company that can manage or at least articulate these processes so there is a sharable system. If you are a team of 3 people, at least 2 of you should know how long every process takes in the company. If 1 person is travelling, the other can manage the ordering. Keeping the information in your head and not shared will damage the growth of your business.

So, whether you are starting out, or at the next level growth stage, look at your development, procurement and production processes and ask yourself:

• Are your timelines documented?
• Is there a document in place that lists the collection details with milestone reminders to help you plan?
• Is it in a shared drive and available?

If it’s a no to all to 1 or more, you may be causing a bottleneck.

For more information of product development, planning and production, check out my book Blue is The New Black.
My consultancy Co-lab54 specialises in strategic product development for fashion companies.

The key dates is the backbone to your collection and is an important set of deadlines from the start of development to the end of production.

Here are 3 quick tips to help you build the plan so that you deliver a great product on time:

1) Make sure all of your team is included in the plan:

Building a collection is a team sport. Everyone has roles and responsibilities to make it a success, so include them all in the plan so it doesn’t become a 1 man show.

Tip: Key words here are ‘ownership’ and ‘accountability’.

2) Be clear about which season you are working on and when you want to deliver the collection:

The delivery date of the collection  should be the most important date of the plan.

Tip:  Start with the end date of delivery and work back to ensure you don’t cut yourself  short on timing.

3) Understand the timings involved in each aspect:

Make sure you know how long each process takes.

• How long does it take for fabric to be produced?
• How long does it take for a prototype to be made?
• How long does it take for shipping from an offshore location vs a domestic one?

Tip: Have the timeline of every stage ready at hand when you make the plan so that you don’t plan too little time and be forced to deliver late to a customer.
 

For a free Key Dates pullout and more help and advise on collection building check out Blue is The New Black.

My consultancy Co-lab54 specialises in strategic product development for fashion companies.

The creation, design, development and production of a collection involve the generation, sharing and distribution of a huge amount of information. The information flow from the start of the development process to the end of production is a crucial element for the successful internal workings of the brand and for the external relationships with the factories, trim suppliers and customers.

Tips:

• In development and production you need to manage the flow of information. If you don’t consider yourself organized or able to multi task, choose a different area of the business.
• Writing up technical information needs to be clear and precise. Never make assumptions that the factory understands; check and double-check everything until they are clear.
• As the development matrix is the hub for the style information, keep it updated and without error, as it will reduce problems at a later stage. This is your responsibility.
• If you are using more than one factory, be careful when sending the matrix to them. Filter the sheet so that only the information relevant to that factory goes out.
• If more than one person uses the planning sheets and you are concerned about other people changing details without your knowledge, password protect it so only you can change details.

For more information on the Information flow or other aspects of building a fashion collection, check out Blue is The New Black

Susie / Co-lab54.com

Tara St James of StudyNY released her Anti_fashion calendar earlier this year at Redress Raleigh Conference in North Carolina to a hail of appreciation by the small business crowd. Her calendar compares the traditional design, development, sales and production periods of a 6 month structure to the ‘Anti’ version which allows for monthly drops of seasonally specific capsules to hit the stores. T-shirts in summer and sweaters in winter. Ground breaking huh? She designs monthly, she sells monthly and she produces monthly. This not only gives a regular cash flow and clothes when they are needed, but also allows for regular work for the manufacturers rather than peaks and slumps in production lines.

This method of structured design and production is great for small businesses, its great for manufacturers, it’s great for the public and it’s something I talk about a lot in the lectures i give within the industry. So why isn’t it adopted by more brands?

Well, to my surprise, it might just be. Tamara Mellon, ex Jimmy Choo, announced earlier last week that she was launching her own fashion label which would sell clothes in the seasonal months that they should be worn in. For this high-profile individual to flip the traditional fashion calendar on its head takes some guts and a huge risk. Customers will love it for sure but from inside the industry, I’m curious about the stages of how this can be achieved when it comes to concept, colours and fabrics.

For instance, the concept of the collection would, i guess, still be set ahead of time, but colours and fabrics  will be selected from previous and current season to allow for seasonal relevance (fabric mills produce 6 months in advance to show new designs). When it comes to the design side, would she connect directly with her customer base to assess their likes, dislikes, wants or desires or would this be pre planned and fixed? So, on this point alone, it’s interesting to see whether her collection is designed and produced 6 months in advance and then just delivered monthly or whether it is designed, produced and delivered monthly so being able to respond to the customers. There is a very big difference behind the scenes.

But of course the PR of her doing something, potentially, so radical against the norm is a great way to launch a new brand, or sell her new book whichever is first. Regardless, it’s about time someone recognised the need for a more sustainable approach, however luxurious her line will be.

Susie

Co-lab54

Blue is the New Black

150 series

strap details

Established in 2009 by British product designers Patrick Bek and Oliver Fowles, this stylish duo produce classic yet simplistic watches from their London base. With the interiors based on Japanese and Swiss methods, the exterior and packaging has a true Brit twist with simplicity and subtlety.

With designs for men and women and a choice of leather or rubber straps, the styling is workable for day, evening, dog walking or even cake eating.

Prices start at 110GBP to +400GBP, International shipping available.

Rubber Gucci

I want to like them, I really do…..it’s a loafer, great, its simple and not overly branded, excellent, its a shiny, almost metallic colour, oh mercy me enough already..

but wait,  it’s – in –  rubber? Seriously?

A rubber loafer? does it come with a G emblazoned Elastoplast for those special Gucci blisters?

It could have been the perfect start to my week but alas my search for a simple, stylish loafer continues..

I’m not a designer, never have been, and truth be told, have no ambition to be, but what I love about my job is the challenge of getting some developed and produced – the A to Z of the process, which has led to me write a book about the very same.

So, yesterday I was in the position of finishing one project and starting another – with a simple crossover of 3 hours to be exact. For this new project I do have a vague appreciation on the what, when and how but as the brand is technically a start-up ( albeit one with a ton of investment behind it) there are many aspects still to be confirmed, which should trouble me, but actually doesn’t (I think age is slowly removing the control freak in me) and I have to say that last night when I received the draft merchandise plan I actually felt quite calm about the task ahead.

I saw the range size, I saw the product groups and I saw the quantities, all that was missing were the sketches to match against the reference numbers on the sheet.

So – with a glass of wine to my left and a bowl of potato chips to my right, I clicked on the download button to open the sketch files. And then it happened…

My palms became moist, a knot formed in my stomach, my fingers twitched on the keypad and my heart raced, for there in front of me were the illustrated sketches from one of the worlds most famous designers. The enormity of the project hit me and in an instant I remembered why I love my job and why I love this industry. I work with insanely creative people and I help to realise their vision. I had an instant flashback to being 13 years old, tearing magazine pages of fashion shoots, longing to work in fashion in whatever guise that took.. And now, nearly 30 years later, I am privileged to work on a project which essentially takes ink on paper and turns it into a garment.

Holy shit I’m lucky!

…to be continued…..

A talented intern working for a large sportswear brand has just completed her fashion studies. As part of her final project she has decided to present a womens wear accessory concept and range.

Using the company where she interns for inspiration, she decides that another price level is needed, so one price point above the sportswear line, but lower than a catwalk line.

Her presentation looked amazing, it was clear, professional and precise so much so that the sportswear company discussed had considered using some of the aspects for their own research.

The college however, failed her, as they didn’t quite ‘get’ the concept.

anonymous fashion college, you are training people, not only to aspire to great levels of creativity and design but also to work professionally in the industry, to be commercial, to understand processes and to be market relevant. Maybe you should look outside the box a little and not just focus on the crazy avant guard.

Through posting a discussion on LinkedIn.com to gain insider perspectives on a fashion industry conundrum, I discovered not 1 but 2 design initiatives.

Origami necklace

Peonyrice is an accessory brand sourced and produced responsibly in Asia through local communities. The project, an initiative of Pauline Cheung founder of Industria Collective (boutique design agency based in Hong Kong and Shanghai), is a brand of delicate head and neckwear aiming to benefit local artisans and in turn their communities.

Headwear - Peonyrice

With large-scale manufacturing units playing the lead in fashion production, its somewhat refreshing to hear that local si thriving amongst the giants of the East. Embracing traditional techniques and dying methods, this collection of headpieces, origami silk neck wear , and soft folded belts is updated weekly and shipped internationally.